Vineyards and Intercropping: An Organic Tippler’s Paradise

By Tanya Brouwers

Audio version (MP3)

Winemaking has come a long way from that pivotal moment nearly 8000 years ago when the first tippler recognized the euphoric benefits of rotten grapes. Back then it was accidental fermentation in a dusty clay pot. Today it is row on seemingly endless row of drip-“fertigated” grape vines, perfect strips of green grass and big steel drums. Old or new, the goal is still the same; we all want some of that white or red, feel-good juice.

However, with the widespread movement for all things “organic”, many purveyors of fine wines are seeking a beverage not only for the spirit but one that also benefits the soil and the environment in general. With the growing number of certified organic wines lining the liquor store shelves it is apparent that vintners are more than happy to satisfy the consumer’s desire.

It must be mentioned, though, that organic winemaking is more clay pot than clean rows. Insecticides are not allowed in the war against those lascivious leafhoppers and inorganic fertilizers are banned from the little black drip lines. Organic grape growers must rely on more traditional methods to deal with age-old problems like pests, plant nutritive needs and, to put it bluntly, fluctuating income.

In both the organic and the ancient vineyard, intercropping has been the logical choice to deal with Mother Nature’s challenges. It seems like an obvious decision after staring up at those five to eight feet wide, can’t-see-the-end, kind of rows. Five times infinity is? Hmmm. Regardless of the figure, it’s a lot of potential soil that organic winemakers enthusiastically cultivate.

Grapes, like any other plant, require certain levels of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and other trace minerals. The organic grape grower can provide for all of these needs, at the same time adding valuable soil organic matter, through inter-row cover crops planted in the spring or fall and either lightly disked in or plowed down the following spring. The crop of choice is variable and dependent upon location. In the arid Okanagan Valley growers have been experimenting with hairy vetch and black medic. In Ontario oilseed radish, ryegrass and alfalfa are used. In California, Bell Beans, Dundale Peas and Barley are the current crops. The list is extensive and effective.

As on any farm, insects of an unsavory nature must be dealt with accordingly, and vineyards are no exception. For the organic grower, however, moon suits and spray guns are as equally distasteful as the critters in question. Intercropping is the organic and gentler alternative when dealing with wine grape pests. In coastal climes blackberries around the vineyard perimeter have proven quite an effective defense against the leafhopper. Blackberries attract the parasitic wasp, which, in turn, finds the leafhopper rather tasty. In some vineyards in California, entire rows are planted with insectary mixes including Queen Anne’s Lace and Alyssum. Both these plants attract minute pirate bugs, which wreak havoc on the lives of the dreaded Vine Mealybugs. It sounds like quite the battle-zone, to be sure, but the results of this war are healthy soils and happy ecosystems.

Finally, intercropping plays a valuable role in one of the farmer’s more dominant concerns; finances. Rows of non-grape crops can provide alternate sources of income when grape prices fluctuate, disease prevails, or when vines are still young and non-productive. The crop choices are endless and are only limited by the farmer’s creativity and growing zone. High value salad crops and perennial herbs are all quite common as are forage crops for grazing livestock. In Ontario, some vineyards are experimenting with strawberries and in the Okanagan Valley there has even been some talk of raising the fruiting zone to five feet and growing ginseng under the grapevine canopy! Diversity and financial viability; what more could an organic farmer want?

Disconnection from our food sources is a common theme in today’s society. Wine is no exception. “It comes from a bottle, right?” Wrong. Grapes are a crop like any other. At the barebones levels they require water and nutrients. The organic grape grower goes many steps further and nurtures the soil, the insects and the entire vineyard ecosystem. Intercropping plays an invaluable and successful role in these organic grape-growing practices. So let’s raise those glasses of wine and toast the mighty intercrop. Cheers! (Would anyone like a strawberry with that?)


Tanya Brouwers is a Consultant for the Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada. Please send comments or questions by phone to 902-893-7256 or by email to oacc@nsac.ca


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Posted June 2007